Eating at Pepe in Grani - The Best Pizzeria in Italy?
If you’re passionate about Italy and food, you may have heard of Pepe in Grani. If you haven’t, I’m thrilled to introduce you to it in this post!
Pepe in Grani is an incredible pizzeria owned by the famous Italian pizzaiolo (pizza maker), Franco Pepe. Some consider it to be the best pizzeria in Italy. Franco and his pizzas have been featured on Netflix’s Chef’s Table and written about by countless critics and foodies.
On a recent trip to Italy, my husband and I spent time in the region of Campania, the homeland of pizza in Italy. In planning the trip, I knew I wanted to make the effort to include dinner at Pepe in Grani.
Did the pizza and the experience live up to the hype? Is Pepe in Grani the best pizzeria in Italy? Let’s dive into my answers to these questions and more!
Getting There
Pepe in Grani is located in Caiazzo, a small town less than an hour from Naples and about two and a half hours from Rome.
Caiazzo is in the countryside, so it is definitely easier to reach by car, but it’s not impossible to get there with public transportation. If you arrive at Caserta by bus or train from Rome or Naples, you can then take a one-hour train ride to Caiazzo.
I recommend staying in Caiazzo for the night, as a night out eating in Italy can often go late. You want to enjoy the experience and feel unhurried.
The town itself is very walkable and charming. We enjoyed dressing up, grabbing a pre-dinner coffee, and strolling to the pizzeria in the center of town.
First Impressions
Upon arrival, we were greeted by a hostess outside the pizzeria entrance. We witnessed a family without a reservation try to talk their way into getting a table that night. It sounded like they knew Franco Pepe personally, but that didn’t get them in.
So we felt a bit like we were part of an exclusive club, as the hostess granted us entrance and escorted us to our table for the evening.
The decor and table settings of the pizzeria were more casual than I anticipated, but then I reminded myself, it’s a pizzeria. It’s meant to be casual and approachable to all kinds of people. I appreciated that this world-renowned eatery didn’t take itself too seriously.
At the same time, an air of excitement was scattered throughout the pizzeria. It was evident that many of the tables were occupied by guests visiting from other countries, all trying to play it cool but giving off a nervous, joyous energy. Meanwhile, the larger tables were filled with Italian families who seemed right at home among incredible pizzas.
The Menu and Ordering Experience
We made the mistake of waiting for a paper menu to be brought to us, underestimating the modernity of this pizzeria tucked away in a little, out-of-the-way town. Once we realized that we could access the menu via the QR on our placemat, the fun of choosing what to eat began.
The menu is fairly simple and revolves around Franco’s celebrated dough. You can start with bites of fried pizza or fried dough cones filled with distinctive flavor combinations and high-quality ingredients.
The pizzas on the menu are categorized under classic, original, and seasonal. All the pizzas sound wonderful, but it is a place where you feel like you want to try an original creation.
The pizza Margherita Sbagliata is Franco’s most well-known pizza, a beautiful spin on a classic margherita. It’s made with buffalo mozzarella evenly spread out on the dough, then topped with lines of tomato puree, and dotted with a basil reduction.
You can also enjoy something more adventurous. The Selva Blu pizza features pork cheek, blueberries, honey, and walnuts. The Bufalo Tonnato includes smoked scamorza cheese, tuna sauce, buffalo carpaccio, celery, and capers. There’s an original pizza for everyone’s taste buds.
And for dessert, guess what? There’s more pizza. A favorite is the Crisommola del Vesuvio with buffalo ricotta, apricot jam, hazelnuts, and mint. Another option is fried pizza strips with sugar, cinnamon, honey, ricotta, rosemary, and orange zest. How could you resist?
Scanning the menu, I really appreciated the prices. Even though it is a special culinary experience, the prices are very reasonable. Pizzas range from €7 to €15. Again, it’s a pizzeria… and I love that Franco Pepe realizes that and keeps it accessible for all.
Also Read: 11 Tips to Travel Italy on a Budget
The Food Itself
It takes a while to examine the menu and make what feels like the biggest decision of your life in the moment, which pizza to order.
We started with the Ciro fried cones. Two airy, fried dough pieces came filled with Grana Padano cheese fondue, arugula pesto, and dehydrated and crushed black olives.
They were a perfect starter. The cone wasn’t greasy at all, but light and delicate. The cheese fondue, which is incorporated into several items on the menu, was sooooo silky and flavorful. Just a bowl of that with some dough strips to dip in would be pretty mind-blowing.
The slight bitterness of the powdered black olives and the arugula pesto made these fried cones very savory. They were super delicious.
Now for the star of the show… our pizzas! My husband ordered the famous Margherita Sbagliata, and I chose a seasonal pizza featuring artichoke cream. I’m a sucker for anything with artichokes, and we were visiting during the peak of artichoke season. Once I saw it on the menu, it felt like the obvious choice.
We had intended to swap pizzas partway, so that we could each experience both flavor combinations. But I loved my pizza, and my husband loved his, so we just ended up having a bite of each other’s.
Most notable was the dough. It is amazing, very clean and pure. Rather than a guilty pleasure, it tasted healthful, good for you. Really, the whole pizza tasted that way. The ingredients felt of the highest quality.
Unlike many pizzas in Italy, Franco’s are very uniform. The cheese evenly covers the dough, and the rest of the toppings look placed with precision. Even the darker blisters on the crust look evenly distributed. They are certainly beautiful pizzas.
I have to admit that we didn’t visit Pepe in Grani under ideal circumstances. We arrived in Italy on the same day as our reservation. It was the only day on our schedule that allowed us to drive to Caiazzo and spend the night.
I mention this because our jet lag really made it difficult to eat that evening. All we wanted to do was sleep. This kept us from eating as much as we usually do and from ordering dessert. So I do have regrets about the timing of our Pepe in Grani experience.
I do not doubt that the dessert pizzas are incredible. There will be a next time!
The Experience Beyond the Food
Franco Pepe was there the night we visited the pizzeria. He was dressed in his chef uniform and alternated between being in the kitchen and conversing with guests. Seeing him there certainly elevated the evening and the experience.
When we paid our bill, the hostess asked us if we would like to get a photo with Franco. I declined, as it’s not really my thing. But it was nice that she offered. I’m sure many would enjoy meeting the owner and pizza creator.
The staff was happy to let people take photos throughout the restaurant, including the kitchen.
The next morning, my husband and I enjoyed fabulous pastries and coffee at a pasticceria in Caiazzo. As we stood inside, eating and drinking, my husband asked me if the man standing next to us was Franco Pepe. I was about to roll my eyes and chuckled, but in fact, it was Franco.
We enjoyed seeing him interact with locals and friends in the pastry shop. It was evident that he lives in the town.
This man could be making pizza in Milan, London, or New York, but he has chosen to showcase his talents in his little hometown in rural Italy. I admire his choice.
Does It Live Up to the Hype?
So, is Pepe in Grani the BEST pizzeria in Italy? Was the pizza the best I’ve ever had?
In a land filled with seasoned pizza makers who put a lot of love and care into their process, it doesn’t feel reasonable or necessary to declare one pizzeria “the best”.
I appreciate Pepe in Grani for what it is, a great pizza experience created by someone who loves what they do and has mastered their craft. The pizza is insanely delicious and creative.
I cannot think of anything bad to say about the pizza or the experience as a whole. It’s a food lover’s delight.
With all the hype surrounding this pizzeria, you expect it to be amazing, and it is. So there’s no disappointment. But what I will say is… there’s something slightly more special about stumbling onto a place that you’ve never heard of and that ends up blowing your mind.
A few days after eating at Pepe in Grani, my husband and I were ready for more pizza. (When visiting the region of Campania, you must eat as much pizza as you possibly can.) We ate at a pizzeria in the south of Campania, in a little town named Caselle in Pittari.
Also Read: My Italy Bucket List (and How to Make Yours)
A few locals that we had met earlier in the evening casually suggested eating at this pizzeria. And it forever changed us. The pizza blew our little minds. We knew it would before we even took a bite. It came to the table and looked perfect without trying. And recalling the taste of it brings tears to my eyes now.
That’s all I’ll say about that pizza for now. But I bring it up because that’s the pizza that we remember. That’s the pizza we talk about when people ask us about the best things we’ve eaten in Italy. And I think it’s because we didn’t expect it, we didn’t see it coming.
Pepe in Grani is impressive, and you should go! But in Italy, remember to also eat at places you haven’t seen featured on Instagram or a Netflix series. So much great pizza, and food in general, hasn’t been discovered by the masses. So eat off the beaten path and make your own food discoveries.
Tips for Future Visitors
Make reservations a couple of months ahead. I made my reservations online two months in advance, and there were only two time slots left for the date I wanted to book.
The pizzeria will contact you through WhatsApp a couple of days before your reservation, and you MUST respond within 8 hours to keep the reservation. I almost lost my reservation because I didn’t see their message until I landed in Italy after an international flight. Make sure you have a WhatsApp account set up on your phone before arriving in Italy.
Stay the night in Caiazzo. You’ll feel much more relaxed and unrushed at the pizzeria if you plan to spend the night in town.
Don’t eat too much earlier in the day. If you want to try a starter, a pizza, and a dessert, you’ll need some stomach space.
Know that you can go on any budget. A classic margherita pizza and a beer or glass of wine cost as little as €13.
Stop at the Sparono S.R.L. for incredible sfogliatelle and Tenuta del Lago for made-that-day buffalo mozzarella. Sparono is a pasticceria in the center of Caiazzo, and Tenuta del Lago is located just outside the town. They were memorable spots with super delicious products.
Final Thoughts
As a pizza lover, eating at Pepe in Grani felt like a necessary part of my pizza pilgrimage. It was an exciting foodie experience, and the food didn’t disappoint at all. Don’t hesitate to plan your visit!
Still have questions about eating at Pepe in Grani? Or want to share your experience eating there? Leave a comment below!
