Travel Diary: 4 Days on Salina & the Aeolian Islands
If you’ve heard of the Aeolian Islands, then you know of one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. (Shhhhh!) These islands, particularly Salina, are absolute gems and beyond worth the extra effort it takes to get there.
The Aeolian Islands are a cluster of volcanic islands just to the north of Sicily. The 7 islands are as follows: Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Stromboli, Panarea, Filicudi, and Alicudi. They are full of natural beauty, but none more than Salina. It is quiet, relaxing, and a place where you can be yourself.
I spent 4 days in Salina with my husband and a couple of friends. Many of the best memories I have from traveling in Italy come from those 4 days in Salina. We had an extraordinary time. I’ve never been anywhere like it.
I love Salina so much that writing this post makes me feel a bit torn. I want people who love Italy to visit these islands and experience something truly special. But my gut hurts at the thought of precious Salina changing and being flooded with tourists.
Can we all agree to keep it a bit of a secret? Maybe just telling family about it, and keeping social media posts to a minimum while you’re there?
I know it might be an unrealistic dream, but I hope that Salina remains in its sleepy, untouched state for a little while longer. I hope you feel the same as I do after visiting there.
In this post, I’ll share the charm of the area, the logistics of getting there and staying there, and the advice I have for those wishing to go. Here’s how I spent (and you can spend) 4 days in Salina & the Aeolian Islands.
The Charm
Day 1 - Arriving to the Aeolian Islands
We left Taormina early one morning by train to Milazzo, a port town where you catch the ferry to the Aeolian Islands. We arrived early enough to sit down for lunch at an Argentinian restaurant, oddly enough. I was hoping to make it over to Siké Gelato, but we ran out of time.
Getting on the ferry was pretty straightforward. (I’ll share more below about where to purchase the tickets in advance.) Luggage tends to get tossed anywhere it will fit, so we kept an eye on where our bags ended up.
There was no assigned seating, so window seats filled up quickly. We learned that aisle seats were actually the better option for being able to get up and peer out windows on either side of the boat as we approached the islands.
The ferry slows down as it closes in on its first stop: Vulcano. From what we could see, Vulcano had a dark, low-key atmosphere and smelled of sulphur but was beautiful nonetheless.
Next, the ferry heads towards Lipari, the biggest of the Aeolian islands. Most of the travelers on our ferry got off here. It makes sense that the only noise we heard in the evenings from Salina came from Lipari and its active nightlife.
It’s hard not to feel like you’re arriving at Jurassic Park as you circle these volcanic islands. What are they hiding in there? You’re not sure if you’ve been transported to Hawaii or maybe Costa Rica. It blew my mind that these islands existed just a ferry and a train ride away from where I lived in Sicily.
The next stop was our home for the next few days, Salina. Have you ever gotten off a cruise ship at a busy port and there are hoards of taxis, tour guides, and vendors trying to sell you anything from photos to rides to food? If you’re into that, I’m sorry… Salina has none of it.
Getting off the ferry in the main port town of Santa Marina Salina, our first order of business was to find our accommodations. Fortunately, our B&B host arranged for a shuttle van to pick us up.
We stayed at B&B Sunrise, a short 4-minute drive or 20-minute walk from the port. The B&B is in a stunning location, surrounded by fruit trees, tropical foliage, and caper bushes. The property has lovely views, a great breakfast, and a friendly, adorable staff.
Technically, we stayed on a part of the property that isn’t listed along with the other modern rooms featured on the B&B’s website. They have two other rental suites that are listed on Booking under the name Case Vacanze Marina Longo.
These older rental suites may not have looked as appealing as the newer rooms on the property, but they have a kitchen area and private terraces with amazing views. We LOVED our stay there!
After settling into our rooms and freshening up, we walked into town for dinner. We were amazed at how quiet the town was. Being June, we thought the busy summer season would have started, but it felt like we had the island to ourselves.
Wandering the village of Santa Marina in the evening was charming, romantic, and peaceful. The little boutique shops and the tiny grocery store were closing up. You could hear a bit of buzz coming from the few restaurants.
We had a lovely evening and a delicious meal at Sale, Amore e Vento Braceria. The island was so quiet that we were actually the only people in the restaurant… the whole evening.
I can understand why some people wouldn’t like that, but we loved having the place to ourselves. We chatted and laughed to our heart’s content with great food and wine.
Back at the B&B that night, we realized that we could see the volcanic island of Stromboli from our terrace. The giveaway was the orange glow against the night sky every 10 minutes or so. Finishing off the night watching lava spew from a distance was an unexpected lullaby.
Day 2 - Renting scooters, Pollara Beach, Hauner Winery
The next morning, we enjoyed a slow breakfast provided by the B&B and planned out our day. Our hosts offered us scooters to rent for the day at a great price, so we decided that we would explore the island.
After the boys did a little practice run, we girls were confident enough to join them on the scooters. And I cannot fully express how amazing it was to ride through the winding roads of this incredible, tranquil island. It was a highlight of the trip.
Being surrounded by so much beauty and having the wind in our hair on clear, winding roads made us feel on top of the world. I was warned by a Sicilian friend from Catania that driving around on Salina would be an extraordinary experience. He was right. So right.
Our first destination of the day was Spiaggia di Pollara, a unique beach in the small hamlet of Pollara. To reach the hamlet, we zigged and zagged back and forth on roads that one would picture on the Amalfi coast, but without the stress of coming across another driver. Super fun.
Eventually, we reached a stone staircase, so we left the scooters and headed down the stairs leading to the beach. Colorful wildflowers and the sea below filled the air with a beautiful scent that you only wish you could capture in a bottle.
Finally reaching the end of the staircase, we saw what all the fuss was about. Built into the cliffside are little stone buildings and ramps, probably once used to store boats during the winter months. Now, swimmers use them to get some sun or as a place to keep their belongings while they’re in the sea.
From the rocks, you can safely jump into the azure sea. It’s a breathtaking and unusual place to swim.
It feels like a hidden gem, but really, anyone who knows anything about the Aeolian Islands knows about this place. So I’m sure it can fill up with visitors in July and August, but still nothing like the beaches of the mainland do during those months.
After floating in the sea, we were eventually in need of some refreshments. L’Oasi Snack-Bar in Pollara was perfect for casual food and drinks after swimming, just a few minutes from the beach.
They have amazing lemon granita, but they also give you the option of having it with beer added. Of course, it was amazing, super refreshing on a hot day.
We were then ready to get back on the scooters and explore more of Salina. We headed through the middle of the island to make our way to Rinella, another tiny village with a beach.
Along the way, it was a joy to pass vineyards and point out caper plants growing on stone walls. The island is lush and natural, but man’s little additions only add to its beauty. All the villages are charming without trying too hard. It’s all very idyllic and bliss-inducing.
The beach in Rinella is unique in its own right, with its grey, volcanic sand. Again, it was the beginning of June, and very few people were there. It was a great but strange circumstance to be at the beach on an Italian island during perfect weather and have it all to yourself.
That evening, we had a 6 pm wine tasting booked in the village of Lingua. So we freshened up at our B&B, got back on the scooters (feeling like pros at this point), and headed to Hauner Winery.
Friends from Sicily had HIGHLY recommended visiting Hauner. They raved about the quality and quantity of the wine you get during one of their tastings.
Well, I’m sure glad we listened to those friends and booked a tasting. Without a doubt, it was the best winery experience I’ve had in Italy. I wrote about our visit to Hauner in another blog post:
The 9 Best Food Experiences I Had While Living In Sicily
After our incredible wine tasting, we were in need of a walk and food. We left the scooters outside the winery and strolled into the village of Lingua.
We were reminded of how small the island is when we ran into our B&B host at a seaside restaurant. The brief meeting made us feel like locals on an island we’d only been on for a day. That’s Salina.
I wouldn’t hesitate to say it was the best day I’ve ever spent in Italy. Scooters. Seemingly secret beaches. Granita. An incredible winery. And wild island views. The recipe for an unforgettable day.
Day 3 - Relaxing, walking, making dinner
Leading up to our time on Salina, my husband and I had had a whirlwind couple of weeks. We had attended an event in Rome and met up with friends visiting Tuscany. We traveled by train overnight to get from Sicily to Rome and back.
By Day 3 on Salina, we were pretty tired and just needed a low-key day to rest. Fortunately, Salina is the perfect place to recoup and relax.
I spent most of the day at our B&B apartment, doing laundry, lounging on the terrace, and reading. The view of the islands of Lipari and Stromboli from our terrace certainly never got old. And the weather on that early June day was pretty spectacular.
By the afternoon, I was ready for a walk. We strolled into the Santa Marina town center to see what was available at the mini grocery store. To put together a simple, delicious Mediterranean meal, this little grocery store had everything you could want.
We gathered together some ingredients, walked back to the B&B, and started leisurely prepping dinner. Our friends had decided to make the most of their day and go off to explore more of the island on their own. When they returned, we enjoyed dinner together on the terrace.
I know that for many, vacation time is precious and they want to make the most of it. But I welcome some slow days on holiday. This slow day on Salina was exactly what we needed, especially with what was in store for the next day.
Day 4 - Boat tour, Panarea, Stromboli, dolphins, and a volcano
After savoring our relaxing and delicious breakfast at the B&B, we got ready for a day at sea! We planned to spend our last full day in the Aeolian Islands on a boat tour, swimming and exploring some of the other islands.
I’ll be honest… my husband and I don’t often book tours and excursions. Living in Italy might have made us like that. Our time there took a lot of the “tourist” out of us.
The only times we might book tours are when we can’t do an activity on our own, like exploring an area by boat or hiking a volcano. Certainly, after this boat experience from Salina, we would happily pay for a similar day trip again!
We booked our boat excursion with Salina Relax Boats, a company with great reviews and boats that embark from the Santa Marina Salina port. We chose a tour that included stops at the islands of Stromboli and Panarea.
It was a perfect day for a boat trip; sunny but not too hot, and the sea was calm. We spent the first part of the boat ride inside, finding our sea legs and getting comfortable with our fellow tour companions.
Our first stop of the day was to observe some hydrothermal vents under the sea. From our viewpoint, we could see what looked like constant, mini volcanic eruptions under the water.
The Aeolian Islands don’t just include above-sea volcanoes, but underwater ones too, so a lot of evidence of volcanic activity can be seen.
Next, we stopped for a swim. For early June, the water was surprisingly easy to get into. After 20 minutes or so of floating in the sea, we jumped back on the boat when my friend was stung by a jellyfish. You gotta watch out for those guys when you’re in the Mediterranean!
Fortunately, my friend is tough, unlike me, and the jellyfish sting didn’t put a damper on her day at all. She viewed it as a “cool scar.”
We arrived at Panarea, known as the fancy, celebrity getaway island. We had about two hours to explore and take some photos.
After spending a few days on Salina, Panarea didn’t stun us. It was beautiful, but less approachable and affordable. I certainly wouldn’t use it as a home base in the Aeolian Islands, but to each their own. Of course, it was still lovely to walk around and experience a different island vibe.
Back at sea, we had another opportunity to swim on our way to Stromboli. After getting out of the water, I was in the washroom changing when I could hear a bit of a stir outside. Then I heard someone say “delfino”, and I quickened my pace.
About 30 to 40 dolphins were playing in the waves around our boat! People naturally lost their minds, including us. The dolphins were playing, jumping, and flipping, creating an environment of pure, childish joy on the boat.
There were even baby dolphins! Our hearts melted. For about 10 minutes, everyone on board shouted, laughed, and cried as nature gave us a spectacular show. It was amazing.
In all the excitement, I didn’t take a single photo! It actually didn’t cross my mind to grab my camera. I just wanted to soak it in, knowing that the moment wouldn’t last long.
But one of my friends was able to take some great photos of the dolphins. Normally, I only use photos on my website that I’ve personally taken, but I have to make this one exception and share some of these dolphin photos.
After recovering from all the emotions that the dolphins brought up, we docked at Stromboli. Immediately, this island felt distinct and slightly eerie. You arrive at a black sand seafront with clouds overhead and know that you’re on an active volcano.
We lived with Mount Etna outside our window in Catania, but being on a small island with a volcano feels different, a bit more ominous. But at the same time, you feel like you’re somewhere special. Volcanoes bring up some conflicting feelings.
In just a few hours on Stromboli, I felt that I got a good sense of the island and fell in love with it. We only visited three of the Aeolian Islands, but it was clear that each was unique and had its own atmosphere. It makes me want to go back to experience the other islands as well.
We explored Stromboli town and walked up to a terraced lookout at Piazza San Vincenzo. Even though there were some tourists, the area felt very homey and filled with locals enjoying the end of the day.
I love that as I look through my photos from the Aeolian Islands, I immediately know which ones were taken on Stromboli. There’s something dark and simplistic about them.
I recently watched a BBC video about Stromboli. There isn’t a whole lot of dialogue, but I thought it really captured the feeling of the island. Don’t mind the title, it’s a bit dramatic.
Before sunset, we headed back onto the boat to see Stromboli from another viewpoint. The boat slowly traveled halfway around the island from the main port and then came to a stop at sea.
The crew prepared a simple pasta dinner as we sat on the roof of the boat. Then the show started.
Stromboli blew lava into the air and caught us somewhat by surprise. After that first explosion, it had our attention. About every 10 minutes, we “woo”ed and clapped as the orange glow brightened the slowly darkening sky.
We were joined by others on the boat who were from other countries, while a large group of Italians stayed in the cabin, laughing and singing, as if volcanoes were yesterday’s news.
I love how one of the most memorable days of my life, seeing dolphins and volcanic explosions, seemed like another Saturday for the Italians.
After eating and watching the never-ending volcanic show, the boat started to head back to Salina. At this point, it was late and very dark. We stayed on the roof, lying down, watching the stars. It was a perfect end to our day at sea and our time around the islands.
Until next time, Salina.
The Logistics
The Ferry
We booked our ferry tickets from Milazzo to Salina through Ferryhopper. Journeys range from 1 hour and 30 minutes to 3 hours, but most are under 2 hours. Prices seem to range from €22 to €30 per passenger, one way, although we paid just under €40 round-trip.
You can actually catch a ferry to Salina from cities outside of Sicily, like Naples, Reggio Calabria, and Vibo Valentia. Of course, these journeys will be much longer. The shortest routes are from the Sicilian ports in Milazzo and Messina.
Because you can easily reach Milazzo by train, I recommend taking the ferry from there. Then you’ll have the shortest ferry rides available to the Aeolian Islands.
Tip: Arrive at the ferry port early. This will give you time to figure out exactly where you need to be to catch the right ferry. There are a lot of bars and restaurants nearby to kill time once you’ve located your departure point.
The Accommodations
You might be surprised by how many affordable accommodations you can find in the Aeolian Islands.
For off-the-beaten-path destinations, like Salina, I suggest using Booking to find accommodations. It seems to be used more by Italian hosts in lesser-known locations than Airbnb.
When you search for accommodations on Booking, search under “Santa Marina Salina”, then look at what’s available on the map and zoom out to see the whole island. If you just search under “Salina,” it will show you other locations in Italy and elsewhere, but not the Salina in the Aeolian Islands.
Again, we LOVED where we stayed on Salina. The property includes modern rooms and two older-style apartments with private terraces. The host, Giorgia, is so sweet and calm. We loved her!
Note: Not all, but many properties on Salina are old and haven’t been renovated to the extent that some people would expect for vacation rentals. For Italy, this island is remote, making it more difficult to get building materials and modern conveniences. Your accommodations may not be luxurious, but know that it won’t put a damper on your stay.
The Scooters and Driving
Driving scooters around the island was a highlight! Even though some of the roads were winding, it was a breeze to get around because there was absolutely no traffic.
There are a couple of scooter rental companies at the Santa Marina port of Salina. It’s hard to miss them. But one has MUCH better reviews than the other. Rent Speedy Jack definitely seems to be the better option.
Unless you’re planning to visit Salina in July or August, I wouldn’t worry about booking a scooter in advance. There are plenty, and not all visitors rent them.
We didn’t know it was an option until we arrived, but we rented scooters from our B&B host for much less than what the rental companies on the island offered. So it might be worth asking the host of your accommodations if they have scooters to rent.
If driving or being the passenger on a scooter doesn’t seem like your thing, there are other options to get around the island.
Salina has a bus service that runs between the four main villages on the island: Santa Marina, Lingua, Rinella, and Malfa. I found this great article that explains how to use public transportation on Salina.
It is also possible to rent a car on the island, but I’m not sure that it’s necessary, and the rental company has pretty horrible reviews. I’ll leave the link to the company here, in case you want to check it out.
There is a tourist info point at the main port of Salina, a helpful place to learn more about how to get around the island.
The Advice
These are my best tips and thoughts for you as you plan your trip to Salina & the rest of the Aeolian Islands.
Length of Stay
I suggest staying on Salina for at least 4 nights. Four nights give you three full days to explore Salina and a couple of other islands. It takes some extra effort to get there, compared to other Italian destinations. Staying any less than 4 nights might not feel worth the effort and be more rushed.
If you can stay longer, do it! One week on Salina would be very relaxing, and you could visit more of the neighboring islands. Of course, you could also enjoy more hiking, beaches, and wineries.
You could also split your time between Salina and another island. Next time I go (and there will be a next time), I would like to stay on Salina for 5 nights and one of the other islands for another 2 nights.
When to Go
May, June, September, and October are certainly the best months to visit Salina. If you don’t like crowded beaches and restaurants, avoid going in July or August. Without a doubt, August will be the busiest month for tourism on Salina, when Italians also take their vacation time.
If you absolutely need to be in the water on your vacation, then maybe eliminate May as an option. The water could be quite chilly.
We were surprised by how few people were on the island in early June. We loved it that way, but if you prefer a more lively atmosphere, visit in late June, early September, or stay on the island of Lipari instead of Salina.
Which Islands to Visit
Honestly, I imagine all the islands are worth a visit. Maybe it depends more on your personality or travel manner.
Lipari is the biggest and busiest island. It has many restaurants, shops, and more nightlife than the others. It is also the closest island to Salina. I would like to visit Lipari the next time I go to the islands.
As I expressed earlier, Stromboli is definitely worth a visit! If the idea of a volcano makes you uneasy, then you could just view Stromboli from a boat.
The island of Vulcano features a crater that you can hike up without a guide and offers spectacular views of the other islands. Vulcano is known to be a bit smelly because of its active sulphur emissions, but along with Stromboli, it is the perfect place for the adventurous.
Panarea, the “fancy” island, is for those of you who want to experience a bit more luxury. If you want to do a bit of shopping or hope to see a celebrity, then visit Panarea.
The little and somewhat forgotten islands of Filicudi and Alicudi offer the least amount of amenities. They are certainly the quietest of the Aeolian islands and are perfect are those who really want to travel off-the-beaten-path. These are the islands I’m most excited to visit next time.
All of the islands can be reached daily by ferry or included in various tours. You could decide in advance which ones you’d like to visit, or wait until you arrive. It is also possible to visit more than one island in a day on your own.
You can use the Ferryhopper website to check ticket prices and ferry schedules between the islands.
What We Did Right
We chose the right island to stay on! Salina is an amazing place. I’m sure the other islands are lovely to stay on as well, but Salina is special, and in my opinion, the most beautiful. I’m so happy that we used it as my home base in the Aeolian Islands.
Renting scooters was a highlight of the trip. We had a slight bit of apprehension about driving them, but I’m so glad we did it anyway! It was the best way to explore Salina.
For a small island, there are several wineries on Salina, but our experience at Haunery Winery felt unbeatable. I would visit other wineries the next time I’m in the Aeolian Islands, but I would also go back to Hauner.
Also, booking a boat tour was more than worth the money, and I would highly recommend it to anyone visiting Salina. It doesn’t really matter which islands the tour includes visiting, but the experience of being on the water and swimming makes the day. Of course, seeing dolphins and lava is a bonus.
What We Missed
Da Alfredo is a casual restaurant on Salina that is well-known for its granita and pane cunzato (a large open-faced sandwich of sorts). I have no idea how we didn’t end up eating there… crazy. But it’s happening next time.
I would have also really liked to have time for a long hike, maybe on Stromboli or Vulcano. We would have needed an extra day to fit that in.
Other than that, I have no regrets about our time on Salina. We ate amazing food, drank fabulous wine, took in beautiful sights, and felt truly relaxed.
There’s no doubt that Salina and its neighboring islands deliver unforgettable experiences. For those of you seeking authentic charm away from the crowds, it’s the perfect destination. It changed how I travel in Italy, and it might change you, too.
Do you have questions about visiting Salina? Leave them in the comments section below!
